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Post by amishland on Jun 25, 2006 19:04:50 GMT -5
Any one know how to install the Kitaco CDI box.
I bought the "plug and play" N.American Kit and have not a clue for where to plug and what to unplug. Waiting for email from Jiang Wayne on how to install....
Thanks for any help
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jun 25, 2006 19:41:09 GMT -5
Happy birthday, Amish. On BattleScooter.com, there's directions to install their CDI, but I don't know how much different the install would be between their's and the Kitacos... Anyhow, it's near the bottom of this page: battlescooter.com/6955/22520.html
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 26, 2006 9:59:09 GMT -5
The plug and play unit isn't really plug and play. I'm not sure what the differences are between the Japan and North American versions but the version you could should be easier but not a cakewalk.
There are 3 things you need to connect your CDI too:
1) The ignition coil. This is right on top of the engine and you'll see two wires plugged in here that are green and yellow. You'll have a yellow/black wire from your CDI that plugs onto this coil instead of the yellow one that's on there now. Just unplug the stock yellow wire and slide the one from the CDI on. Then take the stock yellow wire and connect it to the other yellow wire from the CDI head that has the 'male' end. This might be confusing but once you see the ends it pretty straightforward.
2) Next you need to connect it to the tach signal. To do this just plug the blue/yellow (?) wire into the empty socket under the battery box cover. It'll just be hanging there.
3) The last part is the hard part. What you need to do now is somehow get power to your CDI. You could just take the last 2 wires (green? green/black? red?) and connect them to your battery terminals except then your CDI would always be on so it would drain the battery. Instead you need to connect them to the correct wires near the battery. Check out the Battlescooter install page for pics on which wires to connect these too. The Japan CDI had fancy ends on these power wires and according the battlescooter install instructs you to cut them off so you can just solder the wires but your North America CDI might have different ends but regardless, connect it to the same wires.
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Post by amishland on Jun 26, 2006 16:25:46 GMT -5
thanks for the tips guys
Mr. Wayne has just emailed me detailed photos of how to install the Kitaco Kit, I will attempt the install tonight or tom night and post the results
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Post by amishland on Jun 26, 2006 16:29:54 GMT -5
From what I have read recently from DD and others most do not like the idea of the cdi anyhow and recomend metro top gear to add top spead to the rucki.
I may look into a tach, so I dont rev into the 10k damage range, any recos?
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jun 26, 2006 19:11:29 GMT -5
What is it, the Tiny Tac that some people use... if you want all out, you can get a Veypor like DD and some others.
If you wouldn't mind, maybe post the instructions for the CDI install so others can have a look at it, too.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 27, 2006 9:45:06 GMT -5
From what I have read recently from DD and others most do not like the idea of the cdi anyhow and recomend metro top gear to add top spead to the rucki. The crankshaft bearings are going even on stock Ruckus's after 10,000 miles so a CDI is just gonna make the situation worse if you regularly run it past the redline. However, it's not likely the CDI is actually gonna make much of a difference for you because unless you currently have the power to hit the redline (which you can probably only do down hills) then you're not gonna notice any difference. Another thing to consider is that the Ruckus makes it peak hp at 8000rpm so if you're revving up at 10,000rpm you're way past the peak and you'd probably be going faster if you were geared taller instead so you were at 8000rpm. The first mod anyone should do is a variator like the Polini. This gives you better acceleration and it gears you taller on the top end so it's unlikely you'll ever hit the redline except down steep hills unless your Ruckus is heavily mod'd ie. the big bore piston. If you already have the variator and you've tuned your Ruckus to make enough power that you can still regularly get to the redline (which is 46mph on my 2006 but it would be more like 42mph on a pre-06 because they redline at 8000rpm instead of 8850rpm) then it's time to either ditch the redline via a CDI or go with metro gearing. Both end up being about the same price. The disadvantage of the Metro gearing is that it gears you taller across the board so you'll need to go with lighter rollers to get most of your acceleration back but you'll still stumble a little more off the line. The advantage is that your Ruckus is gonna last longer and you'l probably go faster since you'll be closer to the peak hp. The CDI will allow your Ruckus to perform identical to before up til the point at which you'd hit the redline and then it'll allow your revs to scream even higher and thus you can go faster. If you have a pre-06 Ruckus then this isn't so bad because it is safe to go up to about 9000rpm since the 06's rev this high anyways but don't go screaming down hills at 60mph. One important thing to remember is that CDI's DO NOT WORK with a 2006 Ruckus which is fine because the 06's have a higher redline anyways. Anyways, sorry for the doomsday rant...your CDI will be fine as long as you have the power to use it and the self control to not blast down hills at crazy speeds. Keep your revs under 9000 rpm and you'll be okay.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 27, 2006 9:45:40 GMT -5
Also, if you can post those pics I'd be interested in seeing them.
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Post by SqUiRmInAtOr/ Phred 501 on Jun 27, 2006 17:08:58 GMT -5
The crankshaft bearings are going even on stock Ruckus's after 10,000 miles Just wondering what leads you to this conclusion? I know your's failed,(suprised they lasted that long,rule of thumb is the more you mess with it the more problems you encounter ) but what kind of #s are we talking? How many Rucs have over 10K and where do you find this kind of information?
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Post by Jasper on Jun 27, 2006 17:31:15 GMT -5
coz he rode his old ruck past those kms
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Post by SqUiRmInAtOr/ Phred 501 on Jun 27, 2006 17:54:30 GMT -5
coz he rode his old ruck past those kms Read more than 1 line? I know Dandy past 10kmi . He was also in and out of his motor many times,rode off road, two up,and basicly tortured his ruck. The point of the question is how many Rucs,stock or otherwise have or will go 10kmi and how does he justify his comment that "bearings are going ". His, and who elses?
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Post by amishland on Jun 27, 2006 18:04:02 GMT -5
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Post by SqUiRmInAtOr/ Phred 501 on Jun 27, 2006 18:08:52 GMT -5
That's one pro. lookin how too. Makes the boys @ BS look kinna sad.
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Post by chanito on Jun 27, 2006 20:46:15 GMT -5
Wow! great how to! ;D ;D How about that? there is really a plug and play CDI box And yes back when we started this nice board there were a couple of members with bearings problems, one that comes to mind is ruckass, the other member of the tech wizzard trio, and some even reported that there were some more people with metro scooters with the bearing problem, i think that is because the factory recommended oil change interval is way too long at 2500 miles
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jun 27, 2006 22:44:54 GMT -5
That's a nice looking set of directions.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 28, 2006 10:58:21 GMT -5
coz he rode his old ruck past those kms Read more than 1 line? I know Dandy past 10kmi . He was also in and out of his motor many times,rode off road, two up,and basicly tortured his ruck. The point of the question is how many Rucs,stock or otherwise have or will go 10kmi and how does he justify his comment that "bearings are going ". His, and who elses? Well the people I can list are Me, Ruckass (and Wonderslicer on the same scoot) and mshellywrc plus at least 2 Metro owners on UrbanScootin.com. Of those only myself and Ruckass were into mods. There are more people who've had this than that list but that's all I can think of. I total I've heard of about 10 cases including several unmodified Ruckus's and Metro's. Also, I did work on that Ruckus A LOT but I also changed the oil every 1000 miles with Mobil 1 and I never actually messed inside the engine other than the cam install which was a smooth operation. The CDI probably didn't help things because I did run at high revs often but I see that as more hastening the inevitable rather than causing the problem. When you think about how many Ruckus's you see with over 10,000 miles and compare that to how many of them needed new bearings I'd say it's significant.
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1ofnone
Junior Ruckster
I'm in the Mood
Posts: 96
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Post by 1ofnone on Jul 11, 2006 9:49:40 GMT -5
great how to pics, amishland. It will be helpful when my cdi arrives this week. I like Japanese Scooter Technicians...
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Post by amishland on Jul 18, 2006 21:49:03 GMT -5
thanks for the compliment but i did not make them the guys at Jiang Wayne did all the work I just posted what Mr. Wayne sent me.
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1ofnone
Junior Ruckster
I'm in the Mood
Posts: 96
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Post by 1ofnone on Aug 2, 2006 9:27:40 GMT -5
I installed my new Kitaco CDI and it was a breeze. Studying the Pictures from above images was a DIY's dream. thanks for the post. Holy Moly, what a huge improvement with the thing in my 2005 Ruck. I can't believe the power delivery at every speed. Off the line is amazing for the mighty little bike. I'm beyond satisfied.
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Post by puddlejumper on Mar 22, 2007 18:27:49 GMT -5
Could use a little help on this subject. A Kitaco cdi has come into my hands and its not the "plug and play" version. The only difference seems to be that there isn't an extra connector that plugs into the green wire, red/green wire on the cdi to go to the ruckus. From the pictures above the green wire appears to be the ground wire and the red/green appears to go to a power source. Can someone tell me if I'm right or wrong so I don't fry this thing.
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